Ancient hand-methods of distillation were disappearing as the large firms that dominate production applied "improved" high-volume production methods to an ancient industry. Hubert yearned to find a way to use what he had learned growing up, secrets of distillation handed from master to apprentice for centuries.

Hubert found an antique still in an abandoned cognac distillery, had it refitted, and shipped it to my Mendocino County ranch, in the northern part of California's fabled wine country. We built a modest redwood shed, and in it we made an historic discovery. We had decided to experiment with premium wines, instead of the thin acidic wines—not fit for the table— that are used to make Cognac. The very first time that brandy distilled from Pinot Noir flowed from the still, Hubert put his nose in the sampling glass, took a long sniff, and said, "this is the finest I have ever seen".

"Hubert Germain-Robin is making far better brandies than he or his ancestors ever did in France.
The depth and richness of the XO are extraordinary” FRANK PRIAL/NEW YORK TIMES

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Last modified: 07/06/06

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